As I have said a few times now we shall be mounting three participation games at Salute 2015 and then onto a number of other shows.
We had considered just buying all the kit we need, but have decided to produce as much as we can ourselves because we are gamers and modellers and painters and hobbyists.
The idea is to have three one metre/yard square fields of play so that six players can experience Daisho simultaneously. Like its parent game – In Her Majesty’s Name! – Daisho needs plenty terrain to create a sense of immersion for the players and to provide tactical cover and concealment in play.
Well, my first pieces are being laid down today and it is something simple to warm up my craft muscles after a long hiatus spending my time writing. Medieval Japanese villages feature a lot of sturdy fencing to keep out vermin, to delineate individual property and to act as makeshift walls against raids by neighbours, bandits and ronin.
To make these I have chosen to work in wood, specifically lollipop/tongue depressors sticks, match sticks and coffee stirrers. Using thin wood like this has many advantages:
- it is easy to cut and work
- it is relatively cheap
- you can use PVA adhesive, and
- it takes stains very well.
Here are the materials I shall be working with on my work table:
The lollipop stick is to form a sturdy base upon which the fence panels can be mounted. The rounded end of the sticks will make it easy to arrange fences end to end and at corners and angles.
The coffee stirrers are cut into 20, 25 & 30mm lengths and left fairly rough. This is peasant garden fencing after all, not a Samurai garden show.
As you see below the different length of coffee stirrers are arranged side by side and then the longer match sticks are used to glue them together. Using the full actual lengths of the sticks from the craft pack I bought I find that I can cover a lollipop stick with three fence panels.
Once I have three panels I can simply glue them, in a rough line, on top of the Lollipop stick.
As you can see the different fence board heights allow figures to fight across the fence, use if for cover and fire their weapons from behind it.
All this took about 15 minutes to do one fence. With practice, I reckon I shall be able to turn out half a dozen per hour, which is good as I expect to need a few dozen.
The remaining jobs have to wait until the glue is completely dry and will include basing materials and staining the fence posts and boards. I shall post again when I have a few of these to show.
My next experiment will be building a fence with a gate in it. Watch this space.
Here is the gate I promised earlier: